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You smell the marigold garlands first . Jaipur , the capital of Rajasthan in northwest India , announces itself through scent first , then color . Step through Ajmeri Gate into the old city and every surface turns the same warm , dusty rose . That uniformity is not an accident . In 1876 , Maharaja Ram Singh ordered the entire walled city painted pink to welcome the Prince of Wales . The color code survived him by nearly 150 years . Today a municipal bylaw still requires building owners in the old quarter to maintain those rose - tinted facades . Walk the length of Tripolia Bazaar on a weekday morning . Spice sellers , textile merchants and tea stalls all operate behind the same blush plaster . That shared tone gives the crowded lane a strange visual calm , despite the noise of cycle - rickshaws and motorbike horns . Turn south toward the Hawa Mahal , the Palace of Winds , built in 1799 . Its honeycomb facade holds exactly 953 latticed windows . The lattice let women of the royal household watch street life unseen . Climb the five storeys to the top terrace . From there the roofline of the old city spreads out below you . It runs unbroken rose and terracotta from one gate to the next . Before leaving the bazaar , buy a small bundle of whole saffron threads near Johari Bazaar . It costs almost nothing and weighs less than a letter . Back home , open the packet and the whole city returns at once .
