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You are in Palermo , the biggest city in Sicily , Italy . You walk into the market and you smell hot oil . You can not see the food yet , but you know it is close . The smell is strong and warm . The oldest markets here are Ballarò and Vucciria . They open early in the morning and stay busy until night . Vendors stand behind big trays and call out to everyone who passes . Their voices are loud and fast . The food is cheap and good . You can buy a fried chickpea fritter . You can also buy a rice ball , warm and crisp on the outside . You hold the food in paper . Around you there are crates of fruit and vegetables . The stalls are very close together . It is loud and it smells wonderful . You do not need a table or a plate . You just need two hands and a little space on the street . Take one warm fritter and eat it there , on your feet . That taste is the one thing you carry home from Palermo .
