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The grey - green water is the first thing you see . You are in Trieste , on the northeastern coast of Italy . The city was the great seaport of the Habsburg Empire . Some of its oldest hotels still stand along the Riva . The Riva is a wide stone promenade beside the Gulf of Trieste . Your window faces the water . At blue hour , the Gulf is the colour of old pewter . The ceiling above you is very high . The floor is worn marble , pale and cold underfoot . Brass fittings line the walls . They are dull gold in the lamp light . In winter , the bora wind blows from the northeast . You feel it through the old window frames . It pushes against the glass . You hear it move through the walls . The Riva runs just below your window on the first floor . At night , the promenade is almost empty . In early morning , the light comes slowly . It is flat and silver on the stone . You sit and watch the Gulf . This is the hour Trieste keeps for itself .
