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You smell salt before you see the city . The wind carries it up from the Tagus river , wide and silver below you . Lisbon sits on seven hills . Your legs will know all seven before the day is done . Start at Praça do Comércio , the big square by the water . The tiles on the ground are black and white . The square is open and bright . Walk north along Rua Augusta . Shops and cafés line both sides . Stop at a pastelaria and buy a pastel de nata . It costs around one euro . Tram 28 runs through the oldest streets . It is small and yellow and very loud on the corners . You can board it at Martim Moniz . At the top , walk to Miradouro da Graça . You can see the whole city from here . The castle is on the hill across from you . The river is behind it all . Stay until the light goes orange . Come back down and find a small restaurant before dark . The fish is always fresh . Carry that meal home in your memory . It is the taste of the place .
