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The smell hits you first . Hot oil , salt , and something sweet from the bread . You are at a street stall in Palermo , Sicily . The man in front of you pulls a small paper cone from the counter . Inside are tiny fried fish , no bigger than your finger . He eats them standing up , right there on the street . You can order the same thing for around two euros . The fish are crisp on the outside and soft inside . They are fresh from the sea that morning . A few steps away , another fryer sells arancini . These are fried rice balls . The best ones are stuffed with meat and peas . One costs about one euro fifty . You can also try panelle . These are flat , fried chickpea fritters . They are golden and a little salty . Locals eat them inside a soft bread roll . The markets of Ballarò and Vucciria open early , around seven in the morning . The fryers are ready by nine . You will not have a menu . You will eat with your hands and walk . Take one paper cone home in your memory .
