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It is a hot July evening in Florence , and the small gelato shop has almost reached closing time . Step up to the glass counter , where the tins sit half empty . Skip the cone , and order a little cup with two flavors . Choosing two flavors is a daily ritual . Pick lemon and pistachio , and check the color first . Good pistachio gelato is a dull , brownish green , because real nuts are never neon . A bright green tub usually means coloring , not craft . Gelato looks like ice cream , but the recipe tells a different story . Gelato contains about four to eight percent butterfat , while American ice cream must contain at least ten percent by law . Gelato is also churned slowly , so far less air is whipped into it . Gelato is served at minus twelve degrees Celsius , while ice cream is stored at minus eighteen . A warmer , denser spoonful melts quickly on the tongue , so the flavor arrives faster and cleaner . That is why one small cup can taste bigger than a large sundae . The history begins in this city . In the sixteenth century , Bernardo Buontalenti was an architect and engineer at the Medici court . Florentine tradition credits him with an early version of modern gelato for court banquets . In 1903 , Italo Marchiony , an Italian immigrant in New York , patented a mold for ice cream cups . His cups belong to the disputed origin story of the modern cone . The craft also has a future . Near Bologna , the equipment maker Carpigiani opened its Gelato University in 2003 , and now trains thousands of gelato makers every year . As the server rinses the last scoop , stand at the quiet counter with your cup and taste the final flavor of the day . It tastes like summer itself .
