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The smell arrives before the stall itself — hot oil , sea salt , and the faint sweetness of warming bread . You are standing in one of Palermo 's street markets , and you have not eaten yet , which turns out to be exactly right . Street frying is not fast food here ; it is the city 's oldest cooking tradition . The vendors , known as friggitori , have worked the same corners for generations . At the Ballarò market , which opens around seven each morning , the fryers are firing by nine . Your first order should be a cartoccio of tiny fried fish — whitebait or fresh anchovies , dusted in flour and dropped into oil that morning . A full cone costs roughly two euros and you eat it standing , because that is how it is done . Move a few steps and you find arancini : fried rice balls the size of a fist , filled with slow - cooked meat ragù and green peas . At most stalls , one costs between one and two euros . The crust should crack when you bite it . Panelle are next — flat fritters pressed from chickpea flour and fried until golden . Locals slide three or four into a sesame roll and eat the whole thing in four bites . Try this before leaving the Vucciria quarter . The one thing to carry home is not a souvenir . It is the memory of eating a full meal from paper , on your feet , for under five euros , in the middle of a weekday morning .
