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Ortigia is a small island in Syracuse , Sicily . A bridge connects it to the city . Every morning , fishing boats arrive at the dock . They bring sea urchin and swordfish . By midday , those fish are on your plate . The Mercato di Ortigia is an open - air market . You can smell salt and lemon first . The fish lie on ice , orange and silver and dark red . Sit at a tile table under the market awning . A plate of sea urchin roe arrives on white ceramic . The colour is deep gold , almost amber . It tastes of cold seawater . The red prawns come from Mazara del Vallo . A squeeze of lemon is enough . Swordfish arrives sliced thin , almost like paper . It is pale and clean on the plate . Most seafood plates at the small trattorie around the market cost very little . You eat well here without spending much . Stay at your table when lunch is done . The light turns honey - yellow over the old stone walls . The water below is still and dark green .