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Just behind Piazza Maggiore , the main square of Bologna , tall archways lead into a grid of narrow medieval lanes . This is the Quadrilatero , the city 's oldest market . It lies between Via Rizzoli , Via Castiglione , Via Farini and Via dell'Archiginnasio . In the Middle Ages , the city 's guilds worked here : butchers , fishmongers , goldsmiths and furriers . Several street names still remember their trades . Many shops have been run by the same families for generations , and some still keep their historic furniture . Come in the morning , when the fish market is open in Via Pescherie Vecchie and Via Drapperie . Fish from the Adriatic Sea lie silver and wet in the open shop fronts . Some of the shellfish are still alive . Around the corner , the colours turn warm . Cheesemongers sell pale wheels of cheese , and ham and other cured meats fill the counters in pink and deep red . A pasta shop that is about a hundred years old sells fresh pasta , soft and yellow as butter . Fruit stands add the red of strawberries and the orange of citrus . The Mercato di Mezzo stands on Via Clavature , a narrow street under porticoes . It began as a covered market in the 19th century , and in 2014 it reopened as a food hall . The Osteria del Sole is a short walk away , in Vicolo Ranocchi . There has been an inn on its site since 1465 , and it still serves wine . In the evening , the bars along Via Clavature and Via Pescherie Vecchie fill with people . Sit at a small table with a glass of wine . The archways turn gold , and the old market lanes go quiet around you . 
