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The smell of hot oil reaches you first . That is how Palermo , the capital of Sicily in southern Italy , announces its street markets . The scent rises from wide iron pans and drifts across the alleyways of Ballarò and Vucciria , two of the oldest markets in the city . Both markets run from early morning until late evening . Vendors work fast behind metal trays and call out in Sicilian dialect to pull in passers - by . Their rhythm is part of the experience , as much as the food itself . The signature snack is the panelle , a flat fried chickpea fritter that costs very little . You will also find arancini , golden rice balls stuffed with meat or cheese , hot from the oil and crisp at the edges . Order one of each and eat standing , with paper wrapped around your hand to catch the grease . The stalls sit shoulder to shoulder among crates of tomatoes , fennel and blood oranges . You are eating in a working market , not a food court , and the difference is immediate . Vendors weigh vegetables two metres away . The air is warm with oil and noise . Carry the flavour of one freshly fried panelle home with you . Nothing on the plate later will quite match eating it on your feet , in the noise and heat of Ballarò .
