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You step off the train at Edinburgh Waverley and the castle is already above you . It sits on a sheer black rock at the end of the Royal Mile . This is Edinburgh , Scotland 's capital . That rock is the solidified plug of a volcano that stopped erupting around 340 million years ago . The Royal Mile climbs steadily toward the castle gates . The cobblestones are worn smooth and the wind sharpens as the city falls away on either side . Cold stone walls press close on the narrower closes that branch off the main street . You reach the esplanade and the whole of Edinburgh opens below you . Rooftops , the Firth of Forth , and the green ridge of Arthur 's Seat stretch out in every direction . Every August , that view is accompanied by sound . The Edinburgh Festival Fringe takes over the city 's streets , theatres , and courtyards . It is the largest arts festival in the world . It began in 1947 with just eight uninvited acts performing alongside the official Edinburgh International Festival . Today it has more than three thousand shows . Stay until one o'clock before leaving the castle . Since 1861 , a gun has been fired from the Mills Mount Battery at that exact moment . It fires every day except Sundays , Good Friday and Christmas Day . You hear it in your chest first . Then the sound rolls out across the stone city below .