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Salt is the first thing you notice . It rides the wind off the Tagus , the wide estuary that keeps Lisbon facing the sea . It reaches you before you have cleared the arrivals hall . The city spreads across seven hills , and that geography shapes every hour you spend here . Begin at Praça do Comércio , the grand riverside square that once served as Lisbon 's commercial gateway . The 18th - century archway at its northern edge leads you straight onto Rua Augusta , the main pedestrian artery of the Baixa district . A pastel de nata from any pastelaria along this street costs roughly one euro . Eat it immediately , while the custard is still warm inside its caramelised shell . Tram 28 is the most useful single ticket you will buy . Board at Martim Moniz and pay the flat fare of around three euros . The tram is a narrow yellow car dating to the 1930s . It takes the steep gradient of Alfama at a tilt that feels entirely unreasonable . Ride it to Graça , then walk two minutes to the Miradouro da Graça . The view opens across rooftops to São Jorge Castle and the river beyond . Arrive by 6 p.m. in summer and the light is copper and unhurried . Come down through Alfama 's tangle of alleys as evening begins . Choose a small restaurant with a handwritten menu and order whatever grilled fish the kitchen is offering that night . Lisbon has been a port for over two thousand years . The fish reflects that entirely . Take that meal with you when you leave — it is the clearest souvenir the city offers .
