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Mercado da Ribeira stands on the waterfront in Lisbon , Portugal . The wide brown mouth of the River Tagus is a few steps away . The building has been a working food market since 1882 . Its iron dome still carries the warm ochre tone of the original stonework . You arrive before nine and the marble fish counters are already laid out . Whole sea bass , gilt - head bream and Atlantic mackerel rest on crushed ice . Their scales catch whatever light falls through the clerestory windows above . Prices are marked on small handwritten cards . The vegetable quarter runs along the eastern wall . Deep terracotta tomatoes sit beside the pale gold of dried corn husks and the grey - green of Galician cabbages . The stone floor here is always damp and cold underfoot . Lisbon 's restaurant chefs arrive early and work methodically . They lift each fish , press the flesh , and check the gills . Position yourself near the marble counter and watch how they move . The market teaches you what fresh means . In 2014 , the southern wing reopened as a permanent food hall called Time Out Market . Small producer kitchens offer grilled sardines , caldo verde , and the city 's best pastéis de nata . Come on a Tuesday or Friday morning , when the fishing boats have just delivered . Sit with an espresso on one of the stone benches inside the old hall . The iron overhead turns copper as the sun crosses the river and the day begins around you .
